Thursday, May 21, 2009

Malam Jabba

alam Jabba the fairytale land of romance and beauty, offers unlimited sights that the eye can behold, mighty ranges of Hindu Kush, the Karakuram and black mountains, gentle slopes, placid plains, torrential streams, lush green meadows and thick green forests of pine. Come over for an exciting experience to this nature’s art gallery and you will never forget.Stands on top of a mountain of the Hindu Kush range, at a distance of 40 Kilometers north east of Saidu Sharif. Surrounded by wonderful panorama of scenic splendor and mighty mountains, Malam Jabba is much more than just a ski resort. It is a holiday resort that holds great fascination for tourists and is also home to the remains of ancient civilization. Malam Jabba is 314 Kilometers from Islamabad and 51 Kilometers from Saidu Sharif airport. The Resort offers a host of modern facilities such as:
35 elegantly furnished rooms
Two skiing platforms
Chairlifts (800 meter long cable, highest point 9200 feet above sea level).
Roller/ice skating rinks
Restaurant offering both local and international cuisine
Telephone facility
Running hot and cold water
Snow clearing equipment
The food, lodging and skiing facilities are all managed by foreign trained staff and offered at competitive prices.Pakistan's only major ski area, Malam Jabba has reportedly recently re-opened, ten years after its original completion in 1988. It has reportedly been closed due to lack of finance for much of the past decade. The resort has a base height of 2896 metres reached by a good road. The ski area has vertical of 200m up to 3096 metres served by two double Doppelmayr chair lifts. There's also tapped water served by a 50,000 gallon underground tank. One of the chair lifts is reported to 'seat 56' (presumably 28 X 2 seater), the other is described as a 'training lift.'

Swat Valley

Swat pronounced with a soft "t"at the end, more like "swa'th" has not been found in ancient history. The region of Swat is mentioned in history with different name from time to time. At the Buddhist time (300 BC) the Swat was know as Udhyana (Garden). While the Chinese travelers dictionary mentioned swat as Soto. And its make sense that the recent form of name (Swat) is the distorted form of Soto.

Some of the tourists found swat like paradise on earth and they considered it the Switzerland of the East. The patriots pronounce it as Swat Zar land (the land which sprinkle gold). The word swat can be summarized as the land of snow, water, air (pleasant weather), and trees (forest). Swat is definitely one of the most fertile regions of Pakistan producing seasonable crops of Rice, wheat, Maize, vegetables and Fruits. Cultivation is carried out on every possible bit of land, even on the top of the enclosing hills is done through specialized terrace farming.

In short description swat is nature gifted land of fascinating landscapes, clear healthy climate, gushing crystal white water torrents, beautiful flora and fauna, welcoming peoples, historical sites, mesmerizing alpine lakes, modern resorts and attractive tourist destination in Pakistan. The valley is of great historical significance as it includes the remains of the Buddhist Ghandhara civilization. Ghandhara was a vast area extended from south of Sind to swat in north, where Bhuddism was at its peak. The art that developed in Ghandhara is known as Ghandhara Art.

It was specialized in settlement architecture and stone carving. This geographical region remained like a sandwich between the great powers of the past throughout the history from one period to another; this part lied in the corridor from west to east. Among the foreign intruders central Asia in the west, china and Tibet in the north, Iran and India in the south were chief exponents. In this motive the region was invaded from time to time and different ethnic groups arrived here using different routes by subduing the invaded population.

PEOPLE OF MALAKAND

The people of Malakand are Suni Muslims. They speak pure Pashto language. The main tribes dwelling on the Malakand soil are: Akozai Yousafzais, (Khan Khel and Ranizai), Uthmankhel, Piran-Syeds and Gujars.
The Baizai and Ranizai are sub-sections of the well-known Akozai Yousafzai tribe who had migrated from Afghainstan to their present locations in the latter half of the fifteenth century. During the ruling days of Alagh Beg, uncle of Babar, they were dusted out from Afghanistan. Alagh Beg had reason to feel insecure and apprehensive on the presence of the Yousafzai. He thus started conspiring against them. He killed hundreds of Yousafzai Sardars at a banquet. However, one of the young Maliks, Ahmad Khan who was 14 years old, escaped.
The same Malik Ahmad Khan gathered the Yousafzai who later declared him as their leader. The whole tribe left Kabul and came down to Peshawar valley. They adopted different routes into the North West Frontier Province, displaced the Dalazaks and occupied the present territory of Dir, Swat, Mardan etc. In Swat after defeating Sultan Awais in the early 16th century, the Yousafzai leader Malik Ahmad Khan established Thana and Chakdara areas as centre of activities and also consolidated his position further.
The Baizai are now settled at Thana and Palai while the Swat Ranizai are located between Alladand and Totakan. The Khan Khel section of the Baizai presently at Thana have remained the chiefs of the Yousafzai tribe for many a century.
It was Malik Ahmad Khan who established stern resistance to the Mughal King Babar and forced him to avoid battling with the Yousafzai. Instead of battling with them the King Babar despatched a jirga, which carried out negotiations with the Yousafzai. King Babar also succeeded in getting hand of Bibi Mubarika, daughter of Malik Mansoor, one of the cousins of Malik Ahmad Khan.
The Yousafzai leader Malik Ahmad Khan when died was buried at the outskirt of village Dheri Alladand on the bank of the main Thana-Alladand road.
The Baizai and Ranizai sections live in large villages unlike scattered houses and hamlets of other tribes. Their normal dress is Shalwar, Qamees and a white turban. They have also adopted Pakol(cap) as their head cover.
The Baizais of Thana have produced highly educated and well-placed officers in government service. Majority of the Baizais are agriculturist.
The Uthmankhel tribe claims initial origin from Tank and Gomal valleys in D.I.Khan., from where they migrated to Afghanistan and then back to their present location in Bajaur and Malakand agencies along with Yousafzai. Some of the Uthmankhel are also settled in Mohmand Agency. The Uthmankhel are from the Kodai branch of Karlanri Pathans. They are equally settled in Bajaur and Malakand at the foot hills of Kohimor.
The Uthmankhel have the peculiar style of well-organized tribes like the Mohmands and Afridis. They have occupied the rugged mountains, which indicate that it was either a weaker tribe or had no choice at the time of settlement. They are tough, well-built and brave people. They are good fighters but have never remained united unless the appearance of a common and external danger.
Although they still live in scattered hamlets, they have done away with the tower systems in the middle or corners of their houses. They are conservative in nature and being poor people, migrate in search of greener postures. Their dress is like Mohamands wearing Shalwar, qamees and Qula(Turban). Majority of the Uthmankhels serve in the civil armed forces. They are settled in Qulangi, Agra, Kot, Khanori and Haryankot areas. Their dialect is the same to that of Mohmands.
The Gujars are the original inhabitants of this region before the Arians took command of the area. They are of Dardi race (Drawar) with peculiar small yellow eyes and dark complexion. They speak Gujar language but can also speak Pashto. The Gujars have gone through strange social changes. They are brave and good fighters due to which they were very instrumental in the king making process of Swat. However, they have become almost nomadic tribe. Their concentration is in Mura hills to the east of Thana. They still stick to their traditional profession of cattle breading. They live in unhygienic conditions and their women-folk suffer from malnutrition. They are stubborn, revengeful and get united against aliens.
A significant population of Khattaks, Mohands and Shalmanis also live among the Sam Ranizai, thus making them a heterogeneous segment of society.
The people of Swat Ranizai are Yausafzai Pathans who had come from Afghanistan through Bajaur Agency. The people of Sam Ranizai do not have definite tribes. They are a multi-tribal combination who came and settled here as tenants of the Khans of Dheri Alladand of Swat Ranizai, with the exception of people of Haryankot, who belong to the Uthmankhel tribe. Till 1870 the people of Sam Ranizai were paying their lease regularly to the real owners.
Later, they were encouraged by an exiled Khan of Alladand namely Sher Dil Khan and instigated them to a revolt against their masters and refused to pay the rent. Defying all efforts to subdue them, they declared themselves as owners of the lands of which they were tenant cultivators.
Before the advent of the British, the tribal elders and the landlord class ruled the people of Malakand. After the inception of the foreigners, the tribal elders acted as the judiciary under the FCR. Matters relating to crimes and punishment were to be referred to the Jirga members who would pass their judgements. These judgements were to be executed by the Political Agent as a chief executive. The landless class had no say in the affairs of the agency and lived as tenants. With the passage of time and spread of education the landless class grew conscious. They raised their voice against the law that had kept them subservient to the will of the landed class.
This treatment with the landless class continued till many years after partition. In 1970, the right of adult franchise---much against the inclination of the landlords--- was given to the people of Malakand. The people wholeheartedly commended the decision and took keen interest in the politics of the country. They began to send their representatives to the national and provincial assemblies. The FCR was abolished and the jurisdiction of high court was extended to Malakand in 1974. District and Civil courts were opened here to dispose off cases of the people. The local body elections were held here for the first time in 1979.
Before the local bodies government was set up in 1979, all the funds of Malakand were to be kept on the disposal of the Political Agents who would use to provide them for different developmental schemes. After establishment of the first local government in 1979, these funds were placed at the disposal of the newly elected Chairman of the District Council, Malakand who would be the signing authority to utilize these funds. The Political Agent of Malakand was to be the administrator of the then District Council and the Chairman of District Council would have to consult with the administrator of the council in the utilization of the District Council funds and other matters as well. There would also be few members and chairmen of the union councils who would also had a share in the funds and other matters of the Malakand particularly in carrying out the developmental schemes.

Malakand

MALAKAND DISTRICT, having an area of about 952 square kilometres and a population of over 4.5 lakhs as per population census of 1998 is situated in the lower reaches of the Swat region. Its limits start when the last boundary of Shergarh village in Mardan District touches the outskirts of Sakhakot village as one travels from Peshawar to Swat on the main highway. At the meeting point between Shergarh and Sakhakot, police and custom check posts are functioning and the point is known as Sakhakot Board. Travelling through Sakhakot one enters Dargai village, which is followed by the mountainous terrain of about 15 kilometres known as Malakand Pass or Darrah Malakand much less difficult to cross than before because of a mattled road in it now. Crossing through the same hilly pass you will enter the countrys largest Batkhela Bazar. You proceed onwards till Landakay village where the limits of District Malakand end and District Swat welcomes you.
In ancient history the name of Malakand has appeared as Mala Kund or Mullah Kandao. There exist different versions vis a vis its genesis as Malakand. Some historians say that the word Malakand is a combination of two Persian words i.e mala and kund. In Pushto mala means aamail (garland) and kund means ubo (water). They give the impression that when anyone crosses the Malakand Pass the river Swat looks like a mala (aamail).
Another concept is that the name Malakand has been derived from the words Mullah Kandao. Those who believe on this concept take it as combination of two words---Mullah and Kandao. Mullah means a religious saint and Kandao means a lofty place.
Some people term the name Malakand as Mlakandao which means curved like the backbone of the body. The version that looks more convincing is based on the premise that due to the very steep nature of the pass, travellers after reaching its top, would complain of backache and thus ask for kund which in Pashto is a tonic for restoration of normalcy, and Mala in Pashto means for me-- and thus Mala Kund that is tonic for me gave the name Malakand to the small hamlet on the top.
All the notions about the name of Malakand have one point similar and that is the characteristic of being a difficult territory or place to climb on. In fact it is situated on a curved line almost in a zig zag position. Many poets in the past have also termed the mountainous terrain very difficult to negotiate. Khushal Khan Khattak describes in one of his couplets that the pony riders will find it more difficult to climb on the path going to Malakand and cautions those having lamb feet not to think of climbing on the Malakand pass.
Any how the name Malakand is now-a-days an important and well-known name and has been adopted in the same form by many other villages in the Swat and Dir districts.The area surrounded by Malakand--- on the south till Sakhakot Board, on the north Pull Chawki or Chakdara Bridge, towards the east till Landakay and to the west till Kot Agra comes in the limits of Malakand District. In addition to the above clarification Malakand is bounded on the north by Lower Dir district, on the east by the district of Buner, on the south-east by Mardan district and south-west by Charsadda district and Mohmand Agency. It is also bounded by a range of mountains on the north-east separating it from district Swat and another range of mountains to the west separating it from Bajaur and Mohmand agencies.